by Deborah Burst

The faint sound of a harbor bell tolling in the distance wakes me from a blissful slumber. Sleeping with the windows open is a rare treat, one of many delights during my four-day stay in Mystic, Connecticut. As I look through the wavy glass panes at the century-old inn, the morning light burns away a misty blanket of fog, painting a fresh coat of color across rolling fields of wildflowers.

Nearby, an early kayaker glides his oars through a shimmering river embraced with towering trees. A fleet of spindly masts steady themselves in the harbor, restless spirits crying for the open sea. And down the road, an ancient stone fence curls its way through a nineteenth-century whaling village. A town of proud people eager to share their storied history, Mystic welcomes guests with open arms and a generous dose of New England hospitality.

For my first trip to New England, I envision the postcard rocky cliffs bashed by fierce waves and a ribbon-clad lighthouse guiding safe passage, or maybe dramatic black and whites of stony fences and harbor scenes. Instead, Mystic and its suburbs offer a panoramic view of century-old trees and gardens. Even the shopping mall, Olde Mistick Village, is decked out with colonial decor complete with duck pond, waterwheel, and azaleas and irises.

One of the best places to get acquainted with this seaside community is the Mystic Seaport. A simulated nineteenth-century whaling village details the bravery of our ancestors and the tenacity of the New England people in building a proud nation. Mystic Seaport is a working shipyard preserving boats and ships, including the schooner Amistad, a recreation of which was built there.

For a lesson on the hard life of a seaman, tour the Charles Morgan, the largest and last-built nineteenth-century wooden whaling ship in the world. Crawl into the belly of this ancient vessel and witness the lower deck’s eerie sleeping quarters. Rows of cloth strung in communal hammocks share the musty smell of stale air. Feel the spirit of the homesick seamen craving their families but forever drawn to the melody of the ocean.

After a full day of touring, travel the Mystic River to the Long Island Sound on the Sabino, one of the oldest wooden, coal-fired steamboats still in operation. The romantic ninety-minute downriver cruises are offered mid-May through Columbus Day.

The ocean depths offer a new frontier, and the seventy exhibits at Mystic Aquarium feature 425 species from around the world. The aquarium is one of four facilities in North America where visitors can view Steller sea lions. Daily feedings and shows spotlight those that reside at the aquarium, like Kodiak, who tips the scales at a solid 1,700 pounds, and Astro, a young orphaned male who enjoys performing for enthusiastic crowds.

Bond with some of the aquarium’s most popular residents through the site’s interactive programs. Waddle with the penguins, feed a hungry stingray, or visit with some real charmers from the chilly waters of the Alaskan coast, like Naku, a twenty-seven-year-old beluga whale.

“Our beluga and penguin encounter programs are our most popular,” says Rebecca Giantonio, spokesperson for the Mystic Aquarium and the Institute for Exploration. “It’s amazing to see how our guests react when they come in contact with an animal they may have only seen on television or from a distance here at the Aquarium. These encounter programs help foster a better understanding and appreciation of the animals, inspiring program participants to care for and protect our oceans.”

For a closer look at Mystic’s wildlife, experience the beauty of Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center, home to 175 different species of birds and countless animals and reptiles. Less than two miles from downtown Mystic, the three-hundred-acre nature preserve contains examples of southeastern Connecticut’s diverse ecosystems. Freshwater marshes, ponds, wildflower meadows, woodlands, and rocky ledges form an outdoor classroom for subjects like glacial history and wetland ecology. Engage your wild side and follow the call of the coyote on a full-moon hike or paddle trip at the center, which offers a full slate of year-round environmental education programs.

Just minutes from Mystic, where Long Island Sound meets the open Atlantic, tour the colonial village of Stonington, filled with eighteenth- and nineteenth-century cottages, storefronts, a lighthouse museum, and the historic home of Captain Nathaniel Palmer. A great seafarer who designed and skippered swift clipper ships, Captain Palmer built this elegant home in 1852.

Next door in the Richard Woolworth Library, tales of the Stonington settlers come alive via historic documents dating back to 1649. Vintage photographs, seventeenth- and eighteenth-century literary journals, love letters, death certificates, and even a random collection of coat buttons tell the stories of these New Englanders, our nation’s ancestors.

Yes, Mystic does have its own mystique, bold but endearing. As the seasons turn, I long to see her changing moods: the vibrant pastels in spring and summer, the blazing earth tones in fall, and the evergreens and blanket of white in the winter. On the loyal fan making an annual pilgrimage or the casual visitor at the scenic overlook, Mystic casts her spell, enticing a new legion of faithful followers.

Deborah Burst is an award-winning writer and photographer living in southeast Louisiana who enjoys writing about coastal towns in Florida and along the U.S. east coast.